Feast and Frolics

The big celebration is gradually dissipating now, although it is Tuesday the holiday continues as some shops are still closed and the supermarkets are open reduced hours.The flaounes are gradually getting eaten. I went to the large church in Polis to experience the evening service on Good Friday.I was lucky to get the last seat as the church gradually filled with more and more people after the service had started they even lined the balconies. Throughout the service the congregation one by one went up to the Epitaphos to kiss it. The service lasted two hours during which time the helpers read in a chanting  voice from the scriptures, hymns were sung but in a repetitive chanting style. Some of the congregation had an order of service which they were following and joined in refrains at certain points.

I don’t follow any particular religion myself and was not able to understand what was said so this may have  effected  my perceptions but I didn’t feel any particular spiritual upliftment coming from the service as it seemed very much done by rote. There didn’t seem to be any sermon or special thoughts offered by the Bishop or priest on such a special date in the Orthodox calendar. There was more depth of feeling coming from the congregation than the men of the church although some of the congregation treat the church as a meeting house and gossip through the service.

I didn’t venture forth to witness the unveiling of the iconostasis on Saturday night or join in the lighting of a candle to usher in that “Christ is Risen – Christos Anesti“. as it was very cold on Saturday night. I instead joined in a feast at my cousin’s table on the Sunday lunchtime. I was eager to witness the lighting of the ‘fourno’ in the morning to cook the meat and potatoes and arrived at 9.30 am ready with my camera only to find that my cousin had decided to cook the meat the night before and I’d missed it. I had to make do instead with the lighting of the fire to cook yet more lamb on the spit using a type of fire that my cousin had seen when in Crete. He made his own in his garden and you can see how the meat cooks with the skewers resting on a central rod from the photos. It took 4 hours to cook and I  cannot describe to you how good that meat tasted, I have never tasted such flavour and such succulence. The whole day was a delight spending leisure time with cousins and sons and daughters of cousins and even a son of a daughter of a cousin.Food was delicious and company delightful. Christos Anesti!!!

Advertisements

Flowers, Flaounes and Fire

Easter is upon us in Cyprus and the decorations have come out in force in the towns and villages. Huge chickens and rabbits have sprung up everywhere some looking rather menacing, with rusty red coloured eggs dotted about all very kitsch and often looking a bit tired and in need of a make over. Here Easter is celebrated with the same zest as Christmas in the UK. The flaounes, the delicious cheese, egg and mint pies have been made by the cart load in every home on the Thursday preceding good Friday in readiness for the hoards of relatives and friends that will descend over the holidays. Large stacks of wood have been collected and assembled outside the churches in readiness for the bonfires that will take place at midnight on Saturday.

All around the island the churches are filled with busyness as young girls decorate the Holy Sepulchre – Epitaphios – with elaborate flower arrangements which will be the focus of tonight’s service. Processions will take place through the streets. I hope to catch some of this activity and look forward to taking part.